**Yes—there are more compact options, but the grounds still need a reliable connection.** Assuming you’re in the U.S. and installing cable with a proper equipment-grounding conductor:

- **Use a listed grounding crimp sleeve.** It takes less room than a wire nut. Use the specified crimping tool and wire combination; ordinary pliers aren’t sufficient.
- **Use a green grounding wire nut with a pass-through hole.** One ground wire can extend through the connector to the receptacle’s green screw, saving a separate pigtail. These options are shown in [IDEAL’s grounding connector catalog](https://www.idealind.com/content/dam/india/electrical/assets/WireTermination/GroundingProducts/P-2102%20Grounding%20Products%20SS.pdf).
- **With a properly grounded metal box, use a listed self-grounding receptacle.** This can eliminate the receptacle pigtail. The metal box still needs its own approved grounding connection, and the mounting must meet the self-grounding device’s requirements. See [Leviton’s grounding guidance](https://captaincode2017.leviton.com/node/134).

Don’t put multiple wires under a screw unless it’s rated for them, or use the receptacle as the connection that maintains ground continuity downstream. Removing the receptacle must leave the other grounds connected.

**Check the box’s permitted fill before choosing a connector.** Physically squeezing everything in doesn’t establish that the box is large enough. If it’s undersized, a compatible listed extension ring with marked additional volume can add space outward without requiring a deeper wall cavity. [Hubbell makes extension rings for additional box capacity](https://hubbellcdn.com/ohwassets/HCI/Bell/Catalog/UpdatedCatalog_FULL.pdf).

Turn off the circuit and verify it’s de-energized before working. Never connect the receptacle’s ground terminal to neutral.