Use **recessed fixtures designed for sloped ceilings, or adjustable “gimbal”/“eyeball” lights**, so you can aim the beam down toward the sink. A fixed light mounted flush with the slope generally aims perpendicular to the ceiling, which can send much of its light away from the work area.

Check the lights you already bought before installing them:

- **Adjustment range:** The fixture must tilt far enough to compensate for your ceiling’s slope. Some dedicated slope fixtures accommodate approximately 10°–45°. [HALO’s sloped-ceiling housing](https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/halo/269397/h645ic-series) is one example.
- **Compatibility:** If your lights use separate housings and trims, check whether the manufacturer offers an approved adjustable or slope-specific trim for that housing. A trim swap may be enough; some installations require a different housing.

**Placement matters just as much as aiming.** Locate the sink light over the basin or work surface, in front of where you stand. A light behind you will cast your own shadow onto the sink even if it points straight down.

To reduce remaining shadows, overlap light from nearby fixtures rather than relying on one narrow spotlight. Add under-cabinet lighting for counters beneath upper cabinets; ceiling lights often cannot reach those surfaces well.

Before cutting the ceiling openings, have your electrician temporarily position and aim a fixture. Stand at the sink and check the illumination and glare. With a high ceiling, the fixture’s output and beam spread also matter, so there’s no reliable universal spacing rule.